Our ceiling panels are fastened with nails or screws every six inches around the perimeter where one panel overlaps another. Therefore, your ceiling should be prepared with plywood or wood furring strips before fastening. Furring strips must be used for coffered panels (those which list a depth). All other panels are flat on the back and are best applied to a plywood ceiling. Plywood thickness should be 3/8″ over an existing ceiling, and 1/2″ if applied to joists or rafters. We recommend our cone-head nails be used. One pound of cone-head nails should cover approximately 150 square feet of ceiling.
Installing a Cornice
If our cornice is being used, it should be installed first. Most larger cornices have 90° inside and outside corner mitres which are recommended. Smaller cornices without mitres can be cut with tin snips at a 45° angle. All corners other than 90° must be hand-mitred. Wood blocks are provided and should be used where cornice overlaps cornice and where cornice overlaps mitres. The blocks should be fastened where they line up with the cornice seam. Nail seams every inch or two, pulling seams down tight along the radius. The cornice should be nailed on the nailing flanges into the ceiling and wall with flat headed nails.
Setting Up Field Tiles
Next, the field tiles should be installed starting in the center of the room. A chalk line centered and running the length of the room can be used to align the middle two rows of field tiles. Mail just enough to hold the panels up until they are all in place. Then nail tightly around the pattern as needed. If only field tiles and cornice are being used (no filler or molding), the last row of field tiles should be cut to overlap the cornice nailing flange.
Installing A Filler
If filler is being used it should be cut lengthwise to the desired width. Install by overlapping the cornice nailing flange and underlapping, by about an inch, the adjoining field, border or molding. When filler turns the corner it should be square-lapped, except for filler #207 which should be cut at a 45° angle.
Installing Moldings and Borders
Moldings and borders, if used, should adjoin the perimeter of the field and overlap the filler. Some moldings and borders come with wood blocks used much the same way as the blocks provided with the cornice, one under each overlapping seam so nails can pull the seam tight along the raised area. Some deeply embossed moldings have corner ells that are used at 90° corners. These are fastened onto the wood blocks and overlapped by the molding.
Overlapping panels away from the main entrance to the room will minimize visible seams. After the ceiling is nailed, seams can be fully closed by tapping with a hammer onto a rounded bolt or dowel rod. Paintable oil-based (NOT water-based) caulk can be used on remaining gaps but should not be overdone. Finally, tin ceilings are sharp, take care in handling them. Many installers wear gloves to prevent cuts. Any further installation questions, call 1-800-641-4038 Monday through Friday 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. Central.